Got Grüner?

One of my favorite things about living a stone’s throw from San Francisco - the epicurean playground of the west coast - is that on any given day, there is some incredible event exalting wine or food. I made my way to one just last Monday, an extensive tasting of Austrian wines hosted by the Institute of Masters of Wine. I was in full wine geek mode, as this particular tasting was aimed at formal students of wine and those in ‘the trade’ (read: people who swirl and spit while musing on about racy profiles and essence of lentils, and are talking of neither social networking nor Indian restaurants).

I am happy to report that I am coming across more savvy (pun intended) wine drinkers outside of such events who are familiar with Grüner Veltliner, the native grape that occupies one third of Austria’s vineyards. For those not in the know, this grape can make white wines of delicacy and finesse, or rich, earthy intensity. Schmelz Grüner Veltliner 2006 is a fine example of what the best are like. The Schmelz is a beautifully balanced dry wine, with all these classic markers, as well as a soft perfume of lily and a tinge of almond cream on the finish.

Of the at least 65 wines at the tasting, over half were white, and many made from Grüner and Riesling, the celebrity grape of Austria, Germany and Alsace. However, the stars of the tasting were the exotic red wines that took up two tiny tables - not merely for the quirk factor, but the fact that they were downright amazing!

The Burgenland region of Austria specializes in intriguing red wines, using grapes the likes of which most people have never heard: St. Laurent, Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, Blauburgunder (this one is actually our old friend, Pinot Noir). All made smoky, cherry and currant-laced impressions on my palate, the best tempting with a musky perfume and satisfying with a spicy finish, apparently the signature of Austrian ‘terroir’. If you want to taste for yourself, swing by Savvy for a bottle from one of my favorite producers, the Juris Reserve Blaufränkisch 2002.

One of the best things about Austrian wines of any color is their incredible food versatility. Delight in classic pairings like Grüner and pork sausages, or go fusion by sipping it with sushi. Think Pinot Noir is the only red wine with fish? Pour a Zweigelt with your salmon, and see for yourself how rules were made to be broken!

There's No Place Like Rhone...

Today's Headline: California Hunkers Down for Fierce Arctic Storm.

As I snuggle with my mug of coffee this January morning, cold, grey forces ravage my normally mild and serene Bay Area environment. With every intention of blogging on the delights of obscure Spanish wine regions (sneak preview!) instead my mind wanders to a far-off place, transported by this dismal weather. London? Seattle? The windy streets of Chicago?

Lest ye forget, I have a bit of a one-track mind. So the Oz of my wind-swept fantasy has fields of gnarled vines, nested amongst massive melons of stone, where centuries of tradition mingle with a fierce independent streak: I am transported to the vineyards of the Southern Rhone valley, where le Mistral winds beat the vines for about a third of the year, before ushering in the glorious sun that gives this unique region of France its ripeness--leading to a higher standard alcohol percentage than any other region in France, and yielding wines of deep body and structure. In the very creative camera of my mind, I see the wines of the Southern Rhone as a kind of crazy lollipop, one where every lick reveals an exciting new flavor (Cherry! Blueberry! Cinnamon! Sage? Pepper? Leather?? Tar??!), that takes both time and patience to finally reveal a luscious core.

The Southern Rhone is very distinct from its Northern counterpart, not only as far as geography and topography are concerned, but for the style of winemaking. While the austere North yields broodingly beautiful red wines from the Syrah grape alone, the South has a potential palette of 23 grape varieties from which to create liquid masterpieces. This being said, Grenache, Syrah, and Mouvedre tend to be the primary grapes used in blending. Adding to the delightful quirkiness of the region, each distinct appellation (for example, the more famous Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape) within the Southern Rhone has its own recipes for which grapes dominate their wines. And of course, the recipe is never quite the same from chef to chef! Which is probably why I enjoy the wines of this region so much, why it is a place that is such a fantastical journey for the senses. I delight in exploring the many distinct flavors that are created here, so surprised by the massive depth of flavor and yet still impressed by the presence of a charming subtlety in the best of wines. And to think that this can be achieved in such harsh conditions, days of unending cold and massive force winds maddening for the citizens, and brutally destructive to many crops, including the vines. But this is the case in many of the great wine regions of the world, where extremes of temperature or terrain are overcome to produce wines of distinct character.

So as we all deal with some form of bad weather this winter, this is something to ponder: what doesn’t kill you, makes you stronger. And, when the going gets tough, the tough get going. As for the Savvy, we prefer to stay safe and warm with a glass of luscious red wine. I personally have hunkered down with a bottle of the beautiful 2005 Chateau Fortia Chateauneuf-du-Pape, a gorgeous red that slowly offers up perfumed layers of rose, cherry, and fresh sage as it opens in the glass; perfect for passing time on a stormy winter night in.

Cheers!