The Savvy Sommelier

Heading to WordPress

2010-11-14T21:07:00.000-08:00

Like so many before me, I have moved my blogging efforts to WordPress. You can find me at http://www.savvysommelier.com or http://savvysommelier.wordpress.com/.

For the Love of Winemaking

2010-01-22T14:38:00.000-08:00

As a Sommelier, part of my calling is to break wine into its component parts based on sight, smell, taste and my understanding of geography, grape varietals and regional winemaking styles. And while I can have dramatic impact on how a wine is presented, described, paired and, ultimately, enjoyed, the winemaker is really King (or Queen) in the mix.

While all great wines do indeed start with great grapes, the winemaker's influence really does make or break the final outcome of a wine. Part scientist, part artist, the winemaker must deliberate and labor over many variables and decisions during the process of shepherding fruit through to its ultimate destiny as fermented glory.

But a few of the decisions a winemaker is entrusted to make:

When to Harvest: juice flavor, sugar level, acidity, upcoming weather, skin conditions, rot conditions, seed ripeness.
Pressing/Crushing & Fermentation: sorting, pressing cuts, crushing vs. destemming only, use of SO2, yeast types, malolactic fermentation, acid and sugar correction, barrel choices, punchdown / pumpover regimen, temperature management
Aging: time in barrel, racking, blending, bottling

There are many confounding factors in making winemaking decisions. To learn more I rely on my friend, Aimee Baker, head winemaker at Pichetti Winery. She is teaching "Wine Appreciation: From Vineyard to Glass" on Monday Jan 25th and Feb 1st at Savvy Cellar Wines in Redwood City, CA. Come learn from her experience, gut feel and execution skills in making great wine. (Pre-registration required).

Gobble, Gobble Tofurkey Time

2009-11-25T17:00:00.000-08:00

It's time for the obligatory blog post about wine to pair with your Thanksgiving feast. Apologies for the lateness as it is Thanksgiving eve and the short week has slipped away.

Check out "Can't-fail guide to Thanksgiving wines" for a more traditional set of Thanksgiving wine recommendations. Laurie Daniel of the SJ Mercury News has a good article as well.

My hubby Brent weighed in last year with his "It's Cool Whip Time Baby!" post last year.

Let's take a peak at the wines that I brought home from the Savvy Cellar for our Thanksgiving celebration. We are doing a potluck with friends (10 adults, 5 kids) this year, complete with BBQ turkey, potatoes, dressing, gravy, broccoli slaw, mac & cheese and, yes, tofurkey - it is N. CA after all!

We'll start the festivities with a little Prosecco. Should be crisp, fruity, acidic and refreshing - a gentle start as the hoard walks through the door!

Chateau de Montfaucon from the Rhone Valley. 5-varietal blend dominated by viogner and marsanne. Bright, big, aromatic with plenty of acidity to cut through our fatty fare.
Talbot Chardonnay from Santa Lucia highlands. This is a CA chard drinkers' crowd please. Lush, buttery. I might have a sip or two pre-dinner. Will do well with butter basted turkey.
Georges DeBeouf Beaujolais Nouveau. So what does young french wine have to do with the quintessential America feast? Well, despite its simple flavor profile, this wine is fairly acidic and will not shy away from the big and competing flavors of a Thanksgiving spread.
Paraiso Pinot Noir. Bright sour cherry and cranberry on the nose along with balanced acidity make this an obvious choice.

More important than the wine or food, is the great appreciation I have for my family, friends and neighbors who'll skip out on their families to join us tomorrow.

Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours!

Organic Winemaking with Jim Milone, Terra Savia

2009-09-28T15:53:00.000-07:00

Apprentice winemaker Joel Kampfe interviews Jim Milone, winemaker with Terra Savia. Jim shares how is able to get tropical pina colada flavors in chardonnay while keeping alcohol low. He also shares how to soften tannins in Petit Verdot through maceration (soaking after fermentation) without wine turning to vinegar.

For a more general interview with Jim Milone, click here.

To see Jim review some of his Terra Savia wines, click here.

Terra Savia Wines

2009-09-23T17:01:00.000-07:00

As part of our recent launch of Winemaker Wednesday at Savvy Cellar Wines, Winston Jones sat down to review three wines from Terra Savia. Joining Winston in reviewing the wines is none other than the winemaker himself, Jim Milone. Enjoy the reviews and enjoy the wines.

(For a longer interview with Jim Milone, Winemaker from Terra Savia, click here).

Jim Milone, Terra Savia Winemaker

2009-09-23T16:31:00.000-07:00

Savvy Cellar kicked off a winemaker series last week, hosting Terra Savia winemaker Jim Milone. Jim sat down with my partner in crime, Brent Harrison, to discuss Terra Savia, organic farming and other topics around sustainability in practice in the vineyard and winemaking. Enjoy Jim's perspective and go forth and try his wines!

See Jim review his Terra Savia wines, click here.

Wine is Not Always Serious

2009-09-11T15:20:00.000-07:00

Every once in a while I find something amusing. Even less often I get surprised. So it came as a welcome break from the pressures of running a wine business in this grinding environment when one of my star peeps, Winston, made the following. I hope you enjoy (and giggle) as much as I did . . . . .

Do Points Matter? The Results

2009-09-02T11:14:00.000-07:00

SWE 2009 Do Points Matter? from David Glancy on Vimeo.

Last month, I attended the Society of Wine Educators conference and sat on a panel "Do Points Matter?"

Well I'm not sure we resolved anything conclusively, although there was lively discussion among the attendees as to the merits / demerits of point-based ratings of wines. My personal take was that many professionals who have been in the wine industry for years, lamented longing for "the old days" where points didn't exist. For those younger professionals, it seems that points are a non-issue, merely accepted as part of the rating practices of the industry.

Perhaps most interesting than the whole points debate was the results of the tasting. My fellow panelists joined the audience in a tasting of 8 wines, some rated 88 points and some rated 92 points. Our challenge was to predict whether each wine we tasted received 88 points or 92 points. Results were surprising: the audience (at least 60%) was able to correctly guess the points on only 1 wine.

So it seems we all have our own unique rating systems. My thanks to David Glancy for moderating the panel and providing the following recap of the % of the audience who was able to guess the actual Wine Spectator (WS) rating:

Chateau Ste. Michelle Canoe Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills 2006 (WS88) - 33% correct
Karl Lawrence Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2005 (WS88) - 46% correct
Joseph Phelps Sauvignon Blanc Napa 2007 (WS92) - 49% correct
Jacob's Creak St. Hugo Cabernet Sauvigon Coonawarra 2004 (WS88) - 51% correct
Rodney Strong "Charlotte's Home" Sauvignon Blanc (WS88) - 54% correct
Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc California 2007 (WS88) - 59% correct
Beaulieu Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 2005 (WS88) - 59% correct
Grgich Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2005 (WS92) - 79% correct

Do Wine Points Matter?

2009-07-29T08:32:00.000-07:00

I've been asked to sit on a panel and blind wine tasting today at the Society of Wine Educators conference in Sacramento. The panel is titled "Do Points Matter"? Given I founded Savvy Cellar Wines using points as a screening criteria for wines we bring into inventory - only 90 points or higher - it got me thinking about the role that wine ratings and scores play.

Do Wine Points Matter? Yes . . .

Helps Lesser Knowns. As the wine industry experiences the trend of consolidation of wineries as part of "uber-brands" and large, well-financed holding companies, we all run the risk of being subject to the almighty marketing dollar. Ratings help those wineries who are not as large, well-established or with deep pockets to secure distribution and marketing reach to the consumer.
Helps Consumers. For those who are not wine enthusiasts and painstakingly study and taste wine extensively, points are a way to help consumers navigate the myriad of varietals, brands, regions and price points. Points provide guidance and can instill confidence in consumers - helping drive demand.
Helps the Trade. As a small retailer and wine bar, like consumers, we too face a plethora of choice in what wines to purchase. While we like to think our team has sophisticated palates and a deep understanding of what our consumers will enjoy, we can only stock so many wines and using established point ratings from leading wine critics helps to simplify our operational challenge.

Do Wine Points Matter? No . . .

Homogenizes Differences Among Wine. Any point rating scale inherently buries or internalizes what are really material differences among wines (e.g. varietal, style, geography, "terroir", etc.) How does a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand really compare to a Chianti from Italy?
Puts Too Much Power/Influence in a Few. Point ratings are often the opinion of a single critic. Given the diversity in peoples' collective palates, this means that many will not be well served by another's singular point of view.
Creates Irregular Patterns in Demand. Once a wine receives a positive rating from a prominent critic, it will spike demand for that wine. Great for a particular wine maker who receives a 90+ point score (and retailers who are fortunate enough to have access to that product). So the 92 point Napa Cab sells quickly often at premium prices, while the 89 point Napa Cab, which to many would be just as good or even better, languishes on the shelves even at discounted prices.

I'm most excited about the discussion with my fellow panelists: David Glancy and Reggie Narito Jr.

We will be tasting eight (8) wines blind - four rated 88 points and four rated 92 points to see if we can assess the differences. Will post the results later.

What's Chocolate Got to Do with Port?

2009-07-03T11:12:00.000-07:00

With our upcoming Savvy Cellar wine class "Port & Chocolate" Monday July 13th, it got me thinking why does chocolate and port (or other dessert wines) go together. Here's some fun facts about two of my favorite, most decadent of delights:

Aroma Sympatico. You can smell aromas in chocolate just as you do in wine. Chocolate can be described as "winey." Wine can be described as "chocolatey."
Quality Designations. Both wine and chocolate can be called "Premier Cru". A Premier Cru vineyard in France is one of the best single vineyards in the world. A Premier Cru cocoa plantation is a single-origin source of the finest cocoa.
Terroir. With both wine and chocolate, you can taste “terroir” or a sense of place. One can often tell where a wine comes from by just its taste; and chocolates from different countries have distinct tastes (e.g. blueberry or smokiness).
Fermentation. Both wine and chocolate are fermented foods: wine is fermented grapes, and chocolate is fermented (then roasted) cocoa.

Enough talk. If you want to learn more and taste some exquisite pairings of port and chocolate, be sure to come to our Port and Chocolate class on Monday July 13th.

Champagne For My Real Friends

2009-06-20T16:15:00.000-07:00

"Champagne for my real friends and real pain for my sham friends."

Tom Waits

As I prepare my material for the wine class "All About Bubbles" I will teach on Monday June 22nd at Savvy Cellar, I got reflecting on why I love Champagne and Sparkling Wine.

Part of my love is based on how Champagne embodies celebration; although I love also how it brings pizzaz to mundane days of the week and simple foods . . . popcorn and bubbles, anyone? (See blog post: It's Tuesday . . . Pass the Bubbly!)

Part of my love is based in the richness of history and tradition of Champagne - dating back centuries.

Part of my love is for the winemakers who are artists, creatively challenged to make the right "blend" from 30 - 60 still wines.

Part of my love is for Dom Perignon (the 17th Century Monk), who was attempting to actually remove the bubbles from Champagne!

Part of my love is for the (approximately) 56 million bubbles contained in a bottle of Champagne (once opened).

Finally, whether it be Cava, Cremant de Loire, Franciacorta, Prosecco, Sekt, Sparkling Wine or Champagne itself, it looks so incredibly beautiful and is plain fun to sip!

Feast on Wine & Movies

2009-06-12T10:35:00.001-07:00

As part of our Savvy Night Live (SNL) series, we show an interesting movie once a month at Savvy Cellar. While the wine-related move fare is limited (one can see Sideways only so many times!), we do our best to find movies that lend themselves to drinking wine and feasting on scrumptious food pairings.

This coming Saturday June 13th at 8pm, we will be showing "Babette's Feast." The movie is billed as a sort of wine/foodie flick - our favorite genre!

Here's a brief synopsis (compliments of "Chillin in NM" on Netflix):

Yum! To bring the simple but elegant pleasures of a beautifully cooked meal to those living a bland exsistence...how incredible. Babette creates a feast most generous and one I would love to indulge in! My mouth waters just thinking about each delectable course. And the love and joy she brings to the table as well is life altering for those who are lucky enough to take part in this magnificent meal. Not to be missed!!

Hope you can join us for an SNL movie and wine "feast" on Saturday at 8pm!

Food & Wine Pairing Tips

2009-06-05T16:17:00.000-07:00

The Savvy Cellar is back with one of our most popular classes: Introduction to Food & Wine Pairing. This 2-night series will run consecutive Mondays - June 8th and June 15th. More information and registration at www.savvycellar.com/classes.

Students will run through a wine tasting primer and then learn basic principles of food and wine pairing, such as:

Balance flavor intensity. Pair light-bodied wines with lighter food and fuller-bodied wines with heartier, more flavorful, richer and fattier dishes.

Match flavors. Match flavors. An earthy Pinot Noir goes well with mushroom soup and the grapefruit/citrus taste (and acidity) of Sauvignon Blanc goes with fish for the same reasons that lemon does.

If it grows together, it goes together. My personal favorite tip. Regional foods and wines, having developed together over time and taken on characteristics of the earth from which they grow or graze, often have a natural affinity for each other.

There's much more to it. But the best part is that we will do lots of tasting and experimenting with food and wine flavors to reinforce concepts and have fun in doing so!

When all else fails just remember "red wine with hamburgers and white wine with fishburgers." See the Savvy Sommelier's Top 5 Food & Wine Pairing Myths.

How to Order Wine in a Restaurant

2009-03-25T21:54:00.000-07:00

"His palms are sweaty, knees weak, arms are heavy . . . . He's nervous, but on the surface he looks calm and ready."

I'm pretty confident that Enimem was not referring to his feeling prior to having to place an order for wine at a restaurant. But many mere mortals can be pushed to feel such emotions when thrust into the spotlight that accompanies wine ordering for an important meal.

Even for those of us with moderate wine knowledge, taking charge of wine selection can be nerve wracking, particularly if one is trying to impress a date, family members or their boss or work colleagues.

There are some simple rules to follow. (For more on How to Order Wine in a Restaurant, Savvy Cellar is offering a class on Monday June 29th, 7pm, $49):

Ask for input. Most decent restaurants will have at least one person staff who is somewhat wine knowledgeable or at least knows what is decent on their wine list. In addition, you can sample your dining companions as to their basic preferences - white or red, chardonnay or cabernet, etc.
Don't buy low (or high). Often times the cheapest wines on the wine list are the most highly marked up. Don't waste your money - look for moderately priced wines.
Food (generally) loves acid. If you are not an expert on food & wine pairing, a good rule of thumb is to select wines that tend to be higher in acid - sparkling wine, sauvignon blanc, pinot noir.
If it grows with it, it goes with it. Given that wine comes from the earth, it often will pair well with food that also comes from the same region. Argentinian beef? Go with an Argentinian Malbec. French game? Try a Burgundy.

Read more about food & wine pairing myths "Red wine with hamburgers, white wine with fishburgers".

To learn more about How to Order Wine in a Restaurant join us for our class offered this Monday June 29th at 7pm. Put your knowledge to practice with tasting. $49. Savvy Cellar Wine Club Members pay for one, bring a guest for free!

It's Cool Whip Time, Baby!

2008-11-26T20:53:00.000-08:00

It's time for the obligatory blog post about wine to pair with your Thanksgiving feast. But alas it is Thanksgiving eve, the short week has slipped away, you've probably bought your wine already and the real Savvy Sommelier has gone out with the girls.

So now that this lowly spouse has grabbed the reigns of this blog, what could I possibly add to the conversation? Check out "What to drink for Thanksgiving dinner" and "Can't-fail guide to Thanksgiving wines" for a more traditional set of Thanksgiving wine recommendations.

One of the joys of being married to a Sommelier is that I never have to sweat what wine to bring to a party, order at a restaurant or to pair with holiday meals. (Plus I get to drink all sorts of half opened bottles on a daily basis). Let's take a sneak peak at the dozen wines that Jennifer brought home from the Savvy Cellar for our Thanksgiving celebration.

Knowing how the Savvy Sommelier thinks, my guess is we'll start the festivities with a little bubbly - Cremant Brut Reserve from Blason de Bourgogne. (Secret: this one is from Trader Joe's and is cheap! I'm guessing under $10/bottle). Should be crisp, fruity, acidic and refreshing - just what I need to imbibe as the in-laws walk through the door!

Next up will be some white - nothing buttery or oakey in our house. She has some intriguing possibilities:

Handley Gewurtraminer (2005) from the Anderson Valley. Crisp, dry with aromas of rose petals and grapefruit. I would pair with Asian food myself but I'm not in charge.
Crios de Susan Balbo Torrontes (2008). This is one of our favorite whites of late. Torrontes is an aromatic grape from Argentina. It shows floral, citrus similar to Viognier and the dry crisp taste of Sauvigon Blanc. A solid possibility but my guess is she's saving that bottle for just the two of us.
Morande Terrarum Sauvignon Blanc Reserva (2007) from the Casablanca Valley of Chile. I'm betting this is what she'll lay on us as an aperitif as we move from appetizers to the main feast. Orange blossom and magnolia with grapefruit and tropical fruit, topped with a clean and refreshing finish. (Plus there are 2 bottles of this!)
Wildcards: There is a Kerner from Abbazia di Novacella (2007), Alto Adige, Italy. I have no idea . . . . Also from Italy, she also has a Falanghina Sannio from Feudi di San Gregoria (2007). I could be in for an Italian surprise.

The whites, while pleasing to my mother-in-law, are strictly the undercard in our house on this day. Onto the main event . . . the reds.

A reasonable guess for the red we'll be enjoying is the Alma Rosa Pinot Noir (2006) from the Santa Rita Hills. This has been a crowd favorite at Savvy Cellar. Light, fruity, acidic with enough structure and interest to fare well with our bird. Would go over very well at most dinner tables on this day but my guess is the Savvy Sommelier will go bolder (or at least less conventional).
There are a couple of Chiantis in the house. Actually there were a couple . . . I cracked open the Cantinino from Castello Sonnino (2001) to go with my bbq chicken pizza and Sharks game. (Ok, wine geeks this is technically not a Chianti but made from Sangiovese). The other is a killer Chianti Classico from Brancaia (2002 vintage) - I have no idea why this bottle sat on the shelves at Savvy Cellar and ended up in the sale bin. I won't question the lack of judgement others showed in overlooking this . . . rather I will be very thankful it may end up on my dinner table.
Monteagrelo Bressia Malbec (2005) from Mendoza Argentina is in the mix. Haven't tasted this yet but have enjoyed many Malbecs from Argentina - though I think beef and bbq not bird when I think malbec.
Hogue Merlot Reserve (2002) from Columbia Valley in Washington. My bet is on this bottle. Also found in the sale bin at Savvy Cellar . . . perplexing . . . what is wrong with people? This may be the best Merlot I've ever tasted. Rich and supple with texture and flavor reminiscent of a cab-based blend - yet without the intense tannins. I pulled this one on a "Cab Snob" one time when working the bar - said he hated Merlot. Tasted it blind and loved it!
Domaine Chanson Beaune-Bastion Premier Cru from Burgundy (2005). On way out the door Jen said this is a "special" bottle and she'd have my head if drank it. I let it be - hope it comes around tomorrow on the table.

Enough wine drivel, I have to watch ice hockey now and polish off some more Castello Sonnino Sangiovese.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Top 5 Food & Wine Pairing Myths

2008-11-08T19:45:00.000-08:00

"Red wine with hamburgers, white wine with fishburgers" read the greeting card my husband selected for his mother's university graduation celebration. (She went back to school as a mature student and received her undergrad degree when my hubby was 14 years old). This was his first lesson in food & wine pairing (and not a bad place to start).

However there is much more to this subject and it got me to thinking what are some of the common myths (or mistakes that I find people make) around food & wine pairing.

Myth #1: Serve big red wines with spicy foods. Wines that contain high levels of tannic acid (e.g. tannins) will actually elevate the "heat" in a dish, making it even more spicy! A great outcome for dares but not so much for dates or dinner parties.

Myth #2: Serve only white wine with fish. Not necessarily. Despite my hubby's early pairing advice to his mother, many of today's fish dishes with interesting preparations and sauces can often warrant a delicate red. Think Pinot Noir or Gamay (e.g. Beaujolais Nouveau).

Myth #3: Champagne is for celebrations only. Champagne is actually one of the most food friendly wines because of it's high acidity and palate cleansing properties. Serve it with appetizers or dessert to add a little festivity to your meal.

Myth #4: Sweet wines are best left for dessert. Sweet wines can be a great complement to salty dishes. For example, Sherry and Muscat go well with oysters, olives and nuts.

Myth #5: Food & Wine pairing is an exact science. While there are some guidelines and principles that can be learned and are relatively easy to follow - my favorite is when in doubt choose a wine from the region the cuisine originates from - food & wine pairing is as much art and practice.

I'm not sure that "food & wine pairing is just a big scam", but I do agree that you should learn and then experiment with your own tastes. You might be surprised that my father-in-law's favorite food and wine pairing is unsalted peanuts in the shell with a cheap chardonnay. Whatever makes you and your taste buds happy!

If you are interested in learning more about food & wine pairing, complete with lots of yummy tasting, check out Savvy Cellar's Introduction to Food & Wine Pairing class (2-night) Monday, Nov. 10th & 17th, 7-9pm.

If you get really good at food & wine pairing you may be able to stump professional sommeliers or play parlor tricks on your friends and even know how to tackle pairing wine with the dreaded artichoke!

Johnny Depp = Wino Forever

2008-11-07T16:21:00.000-08:00

Rumor has it that Johnny Depp has a tattoo that once read "Winona Forever". Love can fade; and fortunately tattoos can be modified. He is now a "Wino Forever".

Do you know the answers to any of the following?

What grape varietal is found in a White Bordeaux?
Is "Bombay Duck" made from duck?
Will uncorking a bottle of wine help it breathe?
Where do "chitterlings" come from?
Is Muscadet the name of a grape, wine or region?

If you do the answers, you could show off (and win prizes). If you don't, come learn and have some fun (and wine).

Savvy Cellar is kicking off it's SNL (Savvy Night Live) with Wine (& Food) Trivia Night this Sat. Nov. 8th 7-9pm.

Sell No Wine Before Its Time

2008-10-30T15:56:00.001-07:00

Great news for the Mountain Winery in Saratoga. Best know for being one of the best venues to see live music in the Bay Area. I've enjoyed every single show I've seen there immensely: Bonnie Raitt, Jewell, Cowboy Junkies, Neville Brothers, Bill Maher and more . . . . But, as a bit of a misnomer, their wine was anything but memorable.

It turns out that the wine bottled under the Mountain Winery label hasn't been made from the vineyards on the property for years. That is about to change. Let's hope the quality of the wine will match that of the setting and performers in time. Read more from Laurie Daniel of the SJ Mercury News.

SF Wine Bar Tour

2008-10-27T15:26:00.000-07:00

Well, every once in awhile one must break from work and family and go be anonymous somewhere while quaffing and shopping for wine. Brent (hubby) and I did just that this weekend. It's been almost 3 years since Savvy Cellar opened and many new wine concepts have opened since in the SF Bay Area. Thought it was about time to check some out so off we went on a Sunday wine bar crawl.

We used Yelp as our source of wine bars. Two immediate observations:

Less than 1/2 the places we wanted to visit were open on Sunday
We searched specifically on "wine bars in San Francisco" - most turned out to be wine shops with small tasting bars (tucked in the back) with limited menus

First stop was Cask in San Carlos. Opened fairly recently. Modest size but very attractive space. Definitely a wine bar with some nice food options (and a couple of beers). Had a tasty cheese plate, attractively presented along with an unremarkable white wine flight (3 wines) - only the riesling was drinkable. No education or background on any of the wines was offered. Wine list was not interesting or distinctive enough to make me want to return. However, if I lived in San Carlos (e.g. didn't have to drive home after drinking wine), I would frequent Cask periodically.

Next stop was SOMA and Terrior Natural Wine Bar & Merchant. Terrior was our most interesting stop. Alternative, grungy interior made for an interesting setting. Two french dudes run the place - one was working and was helpful, though not talkative, in offering menus. They specialize in small lot, hand-crafted (some organic) European wines. Not much in the way of retail labeling or bar service but an eclectic place to hang. We had a yummy Lambrusco and Cremant d'Alsace. For more on Terrior, see Vinography review.

Just a few blocks away in SOMA was the Wine Club. Once I entered the non-descript side door, I immediately recognized it as the same as the one in Santa Clara. We helped ourselves to a self-serve tasting - basically an honor system as you get your own glass and then keep track of what you poured on a little chit sheet to pay at the cash register once complete. If you are a wine geek (like me) and don't care about comfortable shopping surroundings or straightforward merchandising, this is your kind of place. Jump in and go for a treasure hunt - not great for the average consumer, although best retail prices around. We are on a cheap bubbles kick and picked up the following:

Lambrusco Graspaross di Caselvetro 2007 $9
Schild Estate Barossa Sparkling Shiraz 2005 $25
Domaine J. Laurnes Cremant du Limoux
Graham Beck Brut (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir), South Africa

Next up was William Cross Wine Merchants on Russian Hill. First impression was yet another average neighborhood wine shop, but once we got situated at the tasting bar in the back and began chatting with Jeremy who worked there, our impression changed for the better. Not only was he knowledgeable (and geeky smart about wine), he was very helpful. As we shopped we saw a modest but interesting, primarily European, collection. Picked up a Bugey Cerdon Rose and Petali di Rose Cagliola (2006) - you know it's a good wine shop when a certified sommelier who has her own wine business buys wine there!

Last stop was Swirl on Castro. Great location in the heart of the Castro, Swirl is shop for wine, beer and spirits. In fact, spirits often is more than 50% of their monthly business. Our servers were drinking Pabst Blue Ribbon - don't see that at a wine shop everyday! They try to specialize in small lot and cultish wineries rather than major brands. We hung at the small tasting bar in the back - Brent sampled a 1/2 glass of a nice viognier and I chugged a delicious syrah. Only strange moment came when the servers and I disagreed as to whether a Napa Zinfandel (Howell Mtn) they sampled me on was corked. I guess the customer is not always right.

So what conclusions (competitive insights) did we garner from our little excursion?

There is no shortage of concepts and wine outlets - we are blessed living in the SF Bay Area
All of the places we tried offered something unique
If I lived in any of the respective neighborhoods (San Carlos, SOMA, Russian Hill, Castro), I would frequent these joints

Now, I gotta get back to work . . . until our next SF wine bar tour (part II) coming very soon!

Vote for Savvy Sommelier

2008-10-17T22:26:00.000-07:00

A shameless plug for this blogger to get more recognition (and votes than perhaps Ralph Nader will in the pending election).

Step 1: Click here

Step 2: Share with your "winos in arms"

Okey Dokey Artichokey

2008-10-17T15:19:00.000-07:00

So I'm rushing home after a full day of tech consulting work, coaching soccer, driving kids from swimming and I get a call from the most Savvy of all Sommeliers. She lets me know that we have no wine - yes, it's true we have a lame wine collection at home (as we drink what we have) - and that we are having artichokes for dinner. Ahh, the dreaded California Artichoke - one of the most difficult foods to pair with wine.

Immediately, I think back to my food & wine pairing class and I know this one's going to be tough but I talk myself through it: "I know there is something that can work with artichoke - think, think." As I make my way to the supermarket and the 2 aisles and several end caps of wine, I realize I have a cheat sheet in my iPhone. Before I go there, I think crisp, acidic white. There, an independent, non-Sommelier, thought. But I best be sure, what does WineSnob think? They confirm - Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigrio - and they go one step further, unoaked. Aha, I have it.

Bolstered by my confirmed wine pairing knowledge, I select a Pinot Gris from Oregon. Now I'm showing off as I know that Pinot Gris is the same varietal as Pinot Grigio. Erath Pinot Gris.

As I bolt through the front door of the house, playing it cool by delaying the inevitable discussion about what wine I selected, I can't wait for Jennifer to ask me what I got. "I picked out an Oregon Pinot Gris." Instead of a smile, pat on the head or "good boy", I get a neutral look. Oh, oh, I stepped out too far. "I would have gone with a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc . . . . " I stopped listening . . . something about a grassy, asparagus note . . . . But I thought we were having artichoke. "Well Pinot Gris could work but most of them from Oregon have been oaked." Ugh, a dagger to my ego. "Don't worry it should be OK."

Well, I was determined at this point to drink (and enjoy) my wine. While it was indeed slightly oaked, it turned out OK with our artichoke and my standing as the 2nd most wine knowledgable person in my house (for the time being) was reinforced.

Artichoke = sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio but make damn sure they haven't seen touched any oak!

Escape to NYC & Wine 2.0

2008-10-05T18:24:00.000-07:00

This hubby of the Savvy Sommelier got to escape to NYC a couple of weeks ago to check out two of my favorite things – technology & wine. Seemingly an odd couple, these disparate worlds collided at Wine2.0 at Webster Hall on Sep. 18th. Here are the highlights . . .

Lots of tasting plenty of wineries providing lots of yummy wine. I unsuccessfully tried to crash the VIP area upstairs but the bouncer was big (friendly but big), assuming the hob-knobs were sipping better stuff than us common folk down below. But I found Oriel – one of my favorite wine brands. More on them in a later post.

Companies with displays broadly stated seem to fall into social networking or ecommerce plays – focused on helping you make, find, buy and track wine or connect with others that share your passion. Here's what I found.

WineSnob. One of 3 iPhone applications I have downloaded. Met Morgan Lang founder, leader developer. Based in NYC, self-funded. Beauty of the iPhone Apps model is small software developers can actually generated revenue (he smiled). WineSnob provides an attractive log of the wines you taste. Personally, I’m not one to categorize all I drink (after all I live with a Sommelier) but for those who are anal retentive and into their iPhone, I recommend checking out this app. Personally I love the quick access to wine terminology, food & wine pairing tips, fun wine-related quotes (this blog might start to rip some of those off) and info on varietals. (Will write a review of WineSnob and the other iPhone applications I've used soon).

Met Phillip James, founder of Snooth. Snooth is a wine price search engine. They were showcasing a feature called “Pulse” = a global map that identified who was searching (live) on their site by geography. Seemingly search for wine online is a global phenomena (at last in English-speaking countries). Once a user has located a wine they are interested in they can link directly to a local wine retailer (by zip code I believe). I found spotty coverage on the SF Peninsula (nearest retailers seemed to be Berkeley). Savvy Cellar Wines has got to check out what it takes to get connected into this network. In time, Snooth will charge retailers a “toll” in the form of a percentage of transaction in order to show up high in the search results. Snooth’s value is a large DB and connection to local retailers. (I don’t think much of their Facebook application – nor does their founder). They’ve been at it a year+ and are pursuing a series A funding round.

Crushpad. Heard lots about this company from the SF "winerati" crowd – a winery where you can make your own high-quality custom wine. Great concept, fun tastings and seemingly doing well. Nice to meet and chat with Michael Brill , founder. He tasted me on a recently bottled pinot and then compared it to a pinot that had been barrel aged for a year – remarkable difference in smoothness, texture and drinkability. Crusphad recently closed a round of expansion capital – eyeing locations in Bordeaux for future sites. While I’m not in the “snack bracket” nor have enough wine geek friends with $'s to take on custom wine-making (but I swear I will one day), I will definitely be gifting fusebox, their custom wine blending & making kit and inviting myself over to those I give it to. $120.

Cruvee. Launched at show. Seemed to be some sort of wine portal but their business is selling information back to wineries about what consumers are saying about them and searching for. Not sure about the viability of this site to develop traffic and/or revenue. But I don’t own a crystal ball.

Glasshalfull. Fun wine-related shirts – not too dorky. $25. Savvy Cellar won’t be bringing them in for now as they require 40 order minimum per saying per size for wholesalers.

Bottlenotes. Small world. I ran into Andy Anderson who heads up finance and operations. I mentored Andy prior to his attending Kellogg School of Business as well as provided some advice more recently as he was trying to break into the wine world – never met him in person till now. Bottlenotes has wine clubs, an interesting bridal registry (and idea I had previously) and shop.

VinVillage. I didn’t get to chat with rep – seems to be some sort of wine-related social network where you can meet and connect with cork dorks in your neighborhood.

WineTwitter. I didn’t get to check these guys out – they might have been upstairs with the special people or tucked in some corner. Can’t I just twitter (check me out at /smokejumper) about wine? Maybe they have some special sauce regarding setting up wine-oriented groups that Twitter lacks?

WinePod. I think there was a drawing for one of these slef-contained wine-making units. They retail for $4,499. Dunno if they work or are worth that kind of jack, but man they are sleek looking. I bet Steve Jobs has one in his living room, which means I want one too!

Gary V. So I got to see the phenom my wine friends rave about perform a review in person live. Here’s what I think (as if it matters). Gary V. is a genius! He is developing a great brand in WineLibrary. His style is brash and in your face – personally not my cup of tea (must be the understated Canadian roots). But I totally get why people are attracted to his video reviews of wine – part entertainment and part education. What I did admire is the fact the dude has a good palate and makes wine tasting fun and accessible to many who might otherwise be turned off. I won’t become a regular WineLibrary.TV watcher but I get why others are. (I’m now following Gary V. on twitter – enjoying every moment of anguish he must feel when the NY Jets lose! As a 49ers fan, I get losing (unfortunately)).

Indian Summer = Rosé Clearance

2008-09-25T08:36:00.000-07:00

Sorry for the hiatus - back to work, back to school, etc. got this Savvy Sommelier distracted from spreading wine goodness via the blogosphere.

Last I wrote about Rose = Clairet = Summer Perfection. As we transition into autumn, I'll continue with that theme with a set of savory specials - all intended to evoke memories of your summer, while we experience the warmth of early fall in N. CA.

Bodegas Muga is from Rioja in Spain. Their 2006 Rosé is a blend of tempranillo (Spain's signature red varietal) and garnacha (known as grenache in France and other parts of the world). It is pale pink in color. On the nose I experience aromatic redcurrent, strawberry and even some pink bubble gum (yup). The fruit is complemented by a dusty warmth that evokes a warm Spanish evening. Dry and on sale at Savvy Cellar for only $10.40. (90 points by Stephen Tanzer)

Slowine is one of my favorite new finds. They are from Elgin in the Overberg region of South Africa, east of Cape Town. Similar to the slow food movement, Slowine's philosphy is " . . . to remind us that so much of what is important in life happens in the moments "in between", when you aren't "doing something."" I invite you to stop for awhile and enjoy their 2007 Rosé. It is pinot noir - bright Salmon pink in color. I get ripe strawberries and cherries on the nose. A harmonious wine with sugar and acid in balance. Crisp and refreshing on the finish. I would serve this with roasted or bbq meats, root vegetables or even a light curry dish. On sale for $12.

Closer to home is one of my favorite California wineries, Tablas Creek in Paso Robles. They are dedicated to producing great Rhone varietal-based wines. Their 2007 rosé is an artful blend of mourvedre, grenache and counoise. It is pale red. Musky red berry and pomegranate aromas are complemented by baking spices and herbs. This is a food loving wine that is the perfect way to transition to the fuller, richer, earthy and stewed foods of fall. And a perfect sign-off for this blog post! On sale for $20.80.

For more background and serving tips on rosé, check out "Not Your Mama's Wine Cooler".

Stop by Savvy Cellar if you'd like to sample these or other great fall wines in person.

Rosé = Clairet = Summer Perfection

2008-08-26T13:52:00.000-07:00

This Savvy Sommelier is ready for some summer rosé. I guess I don't mean some, I mean a lot. Actually, I plan to drink my entire summer rosé allocation during the first week in August, while I'm in Bordeaux with my family. It's fitting after all, because rosé wine originally came from Bordeaux. Bordeaux is widely considered as one of the top wine producing regions of the world, responsible for over seventy million cases of wine per year, about 85% red, 12% white, and the rest rosé. That means a total of more than 2 million cases of rosé wine per year. Now that's a summer vacation.

The proper term in France for a rosé is really "clairet" (translation:clear). A clairet is dark pink in style, usually fairly full-bodied and deeply colored type of rosé. It is considered a specialty of the Bordeaux region and is thought to have originated in Quinsac in Premieres Côtes de Bordeaux. Similar to the light wine of the Middle Ages that was exported to England, clairet is the the source of the English term "claret".

A little more geeky history: the term claret in Middle Ages England was a rosé made simply by mixing a batch of red and white wine together. Eventually, claret turned dark - demand exceeded supply, so red wine from other countries was added to the mix. Claret finally acquired it's current meaning, a dark red wine shipped from Bordeaux (without adulteration). That's what the word meant when the first bottled model was ordered in 1801.

Call it rosé, clairet, blush or that pink stuff . . . just count me in.

Tastes Like Chicken

2008-08-06T13:45:00.000-07:00

“It kind of tastes like chicken.”

Instead of my usual verbose, poetic discourse, what if I were to just reply to every inquiry regarding the flavor of a red wine by saying, “Kind of tastes like Merlot…”? Like the doomed-for-dinner chicken, this just wouldn’t fly.

We are often familiar enough with basic food flavors that we are not intimidated to experiment, and hunger generally eliminates the need for a pre-consumption verbal seduction. Wine is different. A new wine-drinker may be able to understand the inherent difference between a Pinot Noir from a Merlot; but start talking about the distinctions between a velvety chocolate-laced Washington Merlot and brooding spicy Chilean Merlot or a sophisticated floral-graced Bordeaux, and it doesn’t take long for them to throw in the towel and just order a martini.

A lot like understanding a fine work of art (after all, that’s what wine is) advanced wine appreciation calls for an open mind, a willing heart, and a bit of experience for comparison. To truly understand the narrow nuances of wine you have to taste many different types of a specific wine, ideally side-by-side. If you have only ever had one type of Pinot Noir, it is hard to understand all the potential in that single grape; it is also tricky to know if you really like Pinot Noir, or if you really just like that Pinot Noir.

That is the purpose of Savvy Cellar’s Sunday Tasting Events: personal palate realization. Each Sunday features a focused line-up of wines chosen to convey the unique attributes of region, climate, winemaker, grape, etc. Basically we give our customers a palate ‘master class’, to build confidence, strength, and quite frankly, to kill all wine ruts.

If I’ve whet your appetite, make sure to check out the Savvy Cellar website calendar, as all tasting themes for Sundays are posted each month. For those dying to get the dish on the ultimate grape diva, Pinot Noir, pop down to Savvy Cellar this Sunday, August 10th from 3-5pm, when we go Crazy for Pinot!

Sommeliers, Simple Pleasures & Screwtops

2008-07-09T09:43:00.001-07:00

I count myself as one of the lucky ones . . . I truly love what I do for a living, and rarely think of it as a job. Rather, I feel I spend my days and nights sharing my passion with others and - incidentally - someone pays me for doing so! But, from time-to-time it is just plain work, and like most people I have a desire to leave my work ‘at the office’.

My circle of friends is heavy with sommeliers, chefs and other food & beverage professionals, as we share a lot in common: unusual schedules, night-owl tendencies, and strong, gusto-driven, obsessive personalities to name a few. Meals shared with said work-buddies are often of the pizza and beer variety, as we don’t generally like to mix work and play. But once and a while it is totally worth the admiration we receive from the engineers, accountants, and computer programmers we hold dear when we agree to bring our work home, and put on a wine-centric dinner party.

Just such a time happened last night, as a fellow Savvy Sommelier and his better half joined in on an impromptu, intimate dinner party I hosted. Reflecting this morning (after copious cups of coffee cut finally cut through the post-revelry fog), I can say that there were many highlights of the night. What made the evening for me was how much pleasure was gleaned from a relatively simple effort. A stroll down to the local farmers market in the morning to decide what would be on our plates hours later, and a last-minute wine selection of a white and a red from the ‘house selection’ completed the menu. And before jumping to conclusions about the elite contents of a sommelier’s cellar, I’ll have you know both wines were under $25 and under screw caps.

I will admit to one epicurean indulgence that belies the humble vibe of the dinner: a mid-meal tasting course of roasted maitake mushrooms ($15/lb, gotta love North California farmer’s markets) and a full, nutty Champagne, Diebolt-Vallois NV Brut Tradition, what I consider one of the most versatile, reasonably priced and elegant non-vintage Champagnes.

What so proudly we hail'd . . .

2008-07-02T18:08:00.000-07:00

With yet another food-centric holiday just days away, I feel inclined to pour out a drop or two of wine advice for your impending theme parties. But considering the theme, I hesitate. Dictating the ideal wine pairings for hot dogs, potato salad, and star-spangled cupcake seems mildly misguided. And considering that it is a celebration of our right to life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness, who am I to tell you what to drink or not drink? If you feel like drinking Bordeaux at your BBQ, go for it - when the theme is independence, nothing is off limits.

For those looking for advice for this year’s patriotic party, I offer this simple tip: The goal is to choose a wine that will please the many varied tastes in the crowd hovering around your grill, and make sense out of a plastic cup. In short, don’t over-think it. I suggest straightforward wines that agree with a variety of picnic and grill-friendly foods, and will fit the theme to boot. When it comes to being all-American, ripe and spicy Zinfandels and creamy California Chardonnay give apple pie a run for its’ money.

"Slow it down" . . . Organic & Biodynamic

2008-06-26T14:39:00.000-07:00

Our society loves buzz words. The loudest buzz words right now of are of the eco-friendly persuasion: ‘organic’ is by far getting the most face-time in the grocery aisle. And while ‘green’ is the new black, it is also the new red, white and rose. After all, grapes are a crop, and wine a grocery item, so organic practices are relevant.

It is inspiring to see how many of the hot trends in wine are connected to maintaining the traditional integrity of terroir, as well as sustaining the environment which creates it.

Biodynamic farming is a definite defender of these concepts. It centers around the important reality that humans are not the only creature involved in the act of producing successful crops; biodynamic farmers are in tune with the rhythms and cycles of the soil, the animals, the moon, the sun - literally every aspect of their ecosystem in order to keep in step with the best partnerships and practices in the vineyard. Randall Graham, California wine rebel/guru, is leading the biodynamic way at Bonny Doon Vineyards; the wines produced of his Ca' del Solo vineyards proves that excellent wines can result from these methods.

I see a lot of similarities between the ‘listen to the land, taste the terroir' philosophies of biodynamic farming and the Slow Foods Movement. Biodiversity is a core fundamental of both, as is the revival of traditional techniques. What I love about Slow Foods is that it also upholds the importance of savoring the pleasure of this eco-friendly bounty at the dinner table, with friends and family. I agree wholeheartedly with the principles of Slow; it should be a priority for us to stop and smell the roses that we just fertilized with organic compost! Wine is a bottled pleasure, a gracious gift from Mama Nature; I think she would be insulted if we did not delight in it to the fullest extent.

In honor of respecting Mother Nature, I highly recommend you try Slowine, a South African wine partnership that supports all the tenets of the Slow Foods movement, and produces delicious wines at an incredibly reasonable price. I recommend their Rosé [Savvy Cellar carries this in store], a jubilee of cherries, strawberries and limeade; though it is rich with fruit it is still quite refereshing, and I guarantee it will pair beautifully with whatever is fresh this week at the farmers market.

Food & Wine Pairing . . . No Stumping This Sommelier!

2008-06-17T19:53:00.000-07:00

A sommelier has several skills that they must keep in shape with constant training (said training involves a considerable amount of eating and wine-tasting, so consequently I’m in the gym almost as much as an athlete). I don’t know if Tiger Woods is goaded while out on the course, but I am relentlessly challenged by my customers to matches of ‘Stump the Sommelier’. Some delight in springing difficult wines on me to taste blind, hounding me to guess the grape, growing region, and vintage on the spot. Others go the food route, quizzing me on the perfect pairing for odd, obscure recipes that often prompt me to question: who would want to eat it in the first place?

While blind tasting - though very useful - is a parlor trick of the trade that is fun to flex for oohs and ahhs, the pairing skill is one that I am surprised astounds so many people. For me, the ideal pairing is rooted in pleasure, and pleasure is absolutely subjective - trust me, once you have witnessed diners fete with delight on sushi and massive California Cabernet, you quickly understand that we don’t all play on the same jungle gym.

So I have decided to occasionally share in this blog some of my favorite tips for pairing success; there are all sorts of published rules and guidelines available, my goal is to help you be inspired rather than restricted.

While Sauvignon Blanc and steak is not my personal recommendation, it is not so necessary to stay focused on the meat and color match-up. I would say pair to preparation - is there a cream sauce or tomato sauce? Is the meat grilled or broiled? - before protein.

For a quick and efficient pairing ‘workout’ serve a meal this week with two very different wines: one paired mainly to the protein, and one that you pair to the sauce or main flavor-enhancing ingredient. For example, sautée a chicken breast with a Mediterranean-style tomato sauce featuring fresh basil, olives, garlic, etc. Thinking only of what matches well with chicken, pour a nice full Chardonnay, whatever is your favorite from California. Then with the sauce in mind, pour a tart, juicy Italian red, perhaps a Sangiovese-based Chianti, or a Barbera. Invite as many people as you can accommodate to see how the preferences compare. Hopefully it will yield an enlightening gastronomical experience; if nothing else you had a nice dinner party, so pleasure accomplished!

Blog Down South . . . All Wines Kiwi

2008-06-10T17:17:00.000-07:00

“New Zealand Wine”

If your free association isn’t instantly Sauvignon Blanc, frankly, I would be surprised. After all, Sauvignon Blanc accounts for roughly 79 percent of the wines exported from New Zealand, and that the pungent, grass and grapefruit-laden liquid is one of the world’s most unmistakable and dramatic wine styles. As a young(er) wine buff back in my home-state of Florida, I developed quite the ‘NZSB’ habit during the 11 months of summer. It is a seasonal craving for me now that I call moderate Northern California home, but as the temperature is starting to push the mercury, my addiction has been roused. Even as I write this, I sip unapologetically on a glass of the 07 Spy Valley Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc; if you are still unclear of what defines this region by style, stop reading and just taste it-- this guy is the textbook.

Now what if I were to say: “New Zealand Red Wine?”

Yep, if you think screw caps are a brilliant Kiwi invention, wait until you taste their offerings of that testy little diva, Pinot Noir. Most wineries brave enough to produce Pinot Noir might say they are in a perpetual experimental phase; New Zealand winemakers can technically claim it - the plantings of Pinot have shot up nearly 10 times in 10 years, and it is still trial and error when it comes to working these young vines. While I would say that Central Otago, the southernmost wine region in the world is the trade and media darling, the Pinot Noirs from Martinborough, a region at the tail end of the North Island seem to be the most consistently balanced. The best feature intoxicating aromatics of dusty floral and fallen leaves, perky acidity and an acceptably generous portion of red berries. They are not nearly as esoteric as Burgundy, but seem to offer more layers of spice and floral than many California Pinot Noir; it is most tempting to liken the best of New Zealand Pinots to the good juice flowing out of Oregon. I have had the good fortune to recently taste the 2006 Escarpment Pinot Noir from Martinborough, hands-down my new favorite this week.

“Purity” is the buzz-word for describing the ‘NZPN’, which I’m beginning to think is just how this country likes to keep things . . . unadulterated.

"What wines are you drinking?"

2008-06-04T16:29:00.000-07:00

There is one question I hear more than any in my daily dealings with the wine-drinking public:

“What wines are you drinking these days?”

I figure most people asking this question are more interested in getting an insider tip-off on the next big trend in wine than a tour of my personal cellar. Lately I have been a big fan of ‘underdog’ grapes, and I think the trend is growing. By ‘underdog’, I am referring to perfectly delicious wines that often don’t get the acclaim they deserve because they aren’t well-know as a major player. Not every wine can be a complex, intellectual experience, and sometimes it is actually better when it’s not; this trend is all about rediscovering simple joys, a concept suited for summer. A great thing about these unsung pleasures is that they often come with smaller price tags, so gas prices don’t have to prevent indulgence in anytime joy.

Italy is a great source of underdog wines; Barbera, an approachable, versatile, light-bodied red grape from the Piedmont region, is often in the magnificent shadow of the Nebbiolo-based Barolo and Barberesco wines from the same region. Fontanafredda’s 2006 Briccotondo is a shining example of what Barbera can be when treated with respect. Currant, cranberry, and black cherry are steeped with pepper, clove, and dried flowers, and the mild tannin and pleasantly tart acidity make this wine almost impossibly good for under $20.

Prosecco, the current “It” sparkling wine flowing in gallons from by-the-glass lists all over the country, is a great example of the upswing of the underdog. Most quality proseccos have the taste of delicate honeydew melon laced in lime zest, with a puritanical kiss of sweetness. Bisol makes a delicious example for under $20.

Chatting up the Wines of Santa Barbara

2008-05-28T18:14:00.000-07:00

Sometimes education happens when you least expect it . . . or want it. Case in point, I received a last-minute invite last week to a wine party in San Francisco. Perhaps it was the use of BYOB in the title that lead me astray, but sounding more like a social mixer than an educational tasting, I happily left my sommelier hat at home and caught the next train to the city.

When I arrived fashionably late at Crushpad, the first “urban winery” to sprout in San Francisco, I walked unexpectedly into an analytical tasting of wines from Santa Barbara county. It was a blind tasting no less, complete with clipboards for note taking and cups for spitting. Because sometimes we sommeliers just want to have a drink, I spent a few minutes pouting by the cheese buffet before I joined the group in the learning experience.

Rather than participate in “guess the grape”, or criticize the quality of winemaking with phrases like “phenolic greenness”, I chose to socialize with the wines, get to know what Santa Barbara was really all about, without the pretense. I focused on fruit, aromatics, structure, and finish. Basically, I took pleasure in the intrinsic characters of the individual wines. I met deep Grenache wines with a common affinity for lots of toasted oak, their blueberry and plum flavors coated with caramel and cocoa. The Pinot Noirs I chatted up had personalities dominated by lots of juicy fruit - raspberry and cherry as expected, but some surprised with tropical notes of guava and ripe melon. A Sauvignon Blanc whispered gossip of floral perfume and the finish of certain Syrahs, burning with of clove and pepper, stung like a clever comeback.

In the end, I left the tasting with a new appreciation for the depth and diversity of this “Sideways” county. These are by no means wallflower wines; if you are looking to add personality to your party, an easy solution is to invite Santa Barbara. Babcock Winery, whose current releases of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay - definite social-butterflies - transition seamlessly from cocktail hour to dinner.

Put the Blinders On . . . and Taste "Blind"

2008-05-19T19:52:00.000-07:00

Sommeliers are professional wine guinea pigs. We taste the good, the bad, and the ugly, so hopefully all you taste is the good. More accurately, we train to understand what a person enjoys - in some respects better than they do themselves. This involves plenty of practice to develop a strong palate memory (a.k.a. "a Rolodex of aromas and tastes"). (Note: when I say practice, I do not mean lengthy wine-soaked dinners, or marathon rounds at the wine bar). I’m talking about formal deductive tasting, involving spitting, note-taking, and often executed ‘blind’.

Blind tasting - when no information about the wine is disclosed - is not only a test for one’s memory of grape flavor profiles, but also is a very enlightening study in the power of prejudice. Often customers will state their preferences by referring to producers rather than wines. For example, they may say they don’t like Rombauer [Chardonnay]. This information is helpful, as a savvy sommelier will know to avoid thick, butter-drenched chardonnays. In contrast, some customers will state they don’t like chardonnay, assuming that all chardonnay reflects the Rombauer style. This is what I refer to as a ‘wine bigot’. Wine bigots can be a challenge to serve, and require finesse . . . and perhaps a bit of guerrilla wine education. In this situation I simply offer them a taste of a crisp white, layered with citrus and pear - and not a hint of butter - without saying a word about it. If they love it, I pour it, and then happily inform them they are drinking a chardonnay, made in a style they had yet to encounter. This scenario illustrates how blind tasting is actually a beneficial experience for all wine drinkers, not just a sport for wine geeks!

In an effort to educate and entertain both the curious and the connoisseur, Savvy Cellar is kicking off Flying Blind! A blind tasting experience held on select Wednesday evenings. The inaugural flight is Wednesday, May 21st, and will feature two sessions of tasting: 5pm designed for more experienced tasters, and then the Amateur Hour at 7pm. Each session is $22, and will be hosted by yours truly, the Savvy Sommelier. Come for the education, come for the challenge, or come just to taste a few good wines.

Cheers!

A Hedonist in the Health Club

2008-05-13T08:25:00.000-07:00

A spoonful of sugar may help the medicine go down, but a glass of wine is a lot more delightful in the first place. Studies show women who are regular, moderate (read: 1-2 glasses a day) wine drinkers have a reduced risk of diabetes, heart disease, stroke, dementia, and that it can help to lower high blood pressure and ease postmenopausal hypertension. Research has also been done that shows the cognitive skills of wine drinkers (again, moderate) are stronger than those of teetotalers.

Seriously, what has a diet soda done for you lately?

If you need a prescription to take it seriously, so be it. As an expert in the field, I recommend regular intake of a seductively beneficial red wine, such as Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon from South Africa’s Stellenbosch region. This is a deep, smoky wine drenched in dark berry flavors, infused with clove and espresso aromas, and featuring reveratol, proanthocyanidin and other glorious antioxidants. Take slowly, self-indulgently, preferably with food and an incredible view of the sunset.

Shower Mom with Love . . . and Wine!

2008-05-06T21:57:00.000-07:00

One of the many things my mom taught me is that when it comes to choosing a gift, nothing counts more than the thought behind it. Needless to say, I make a lot of home-made cards. I also keep this concept in mind when selecting wine for a meal, as it is as much about making a considerate decision as it is about following the rules of taste. The goal for this weekend: to make everyone happy, without making extra work for mom.

No problem! When in doubt, go with a blend. It may sound too simple to actually apply to wine, but I have found the multi-grape experience to be a crowd pleaser. A hit red blend I recently tasted is the 2005 Margerum ‘M5’, a Grenache and Syrah-dominate wine from Santa Barbara. It balances spice with juicy berry flavors without one overshadowing the other. Like mom, it can wear many hats, so feel free to serve it with chicken, pasta, pork, or whatever is on the menu.

More in the mood for white as the temperature rises? White blends are the way to please die-hard Chardonnay drinkers and steely Sauvignon Blanc sippers with one bottle, as they often are a nice middle-ground of texture. I highly recommend The Hermit Crab, a funky white blend from the Australian powerhouse, d’Arenberg. Rich and aromatic viognier is mellowed by the nutty, citrusy tones of marsanne, and both are laced with a crisp mineral note reminiscent of the sea.

If you’re still in doubt, bring mom to the special Mother’s Day tasting at Savvy Cellar Sunday May 11th, featuring a variety of red and white blends. After all, mother knows best.

Got Grüner?

2008-04-29T18:26:00.000-07:00

One of my favorite things about living a stone’s throw from San Francisco - the epicurean playground of the west coast - is that on any given day, there is some incredible event exalting wine or food. I made my way to one just last Monday, an extensive tasting of Austrian wines hosted by the Institute of Masters of Wine. I was in full wine geek mode, as this particular tasting was aimed at formal students of wine and those in ‘the trade’ (read: people who swirl and spit while musing on about racy profiles and essence of lentils, and are talking of neither social networking nor Indian restaurants).

I am happy to report that I am coming across more savvy (pun intended) wine drinkers outside of such events who are familiar with Grüner Veltliner, the native grape that occupies one third of Austria’s vineyards. For those not in the know, this grape can make white wines of delicacy and finesse, or rich, earthy intensity. Schmelz Grüner Veltliner 2006 is a fine example of what the best are like. The Schmelz is a beautifully balanced dry wine, with all these classic markers, as well as a soft perfume of lily and a tinge of almond cream on the finish.

Of the at least 65 wines at the tasting, over half were white, and many made from Grüner and Riesling, the celebrity grape of Austria, Germany and Alsace. However, the stars of the tasting were the exotic red wines that took up two tiny tables - not merely for the quirk factor, but the fact that they were downright amazing!

The Burgenland region of Austria specializes in intriguing red wines, using grapes the likes of which most people have never heard: St. Laurent, Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, Blauburgunder (this one is actually our old friend, Pinot Noir). All made smoky, cherry and currant-laced impressions on my palate, the best tempting with a musky perfume and satisfying with a spicy finish, apparently the signature of Austrian ‘terroir’. If you want to taste for yourself, swing by Savvy for a bottle from one of my favorite producers, the Juris Reserve Blaufränkisch 2002.

One of the best things about Austrian wines of any color is their incredible food versatility. Delight in classic pairings like Grüner and pork sausages, or go fusion by sipping it with sushi. Think Pinot Noir is the only red wine with fish? Pour a Zweigelt with your salmon, and see for yourself how rules were made to be broken!

It's Not Easy Being Green

2008-03-14T14:02:00.000-07:00

I am all for breaking tradition, making my own rules, subverting the modern paradigm, etc., particularly in the name of joy and revelry. And I am ALL for theme parties. But there are some times in life when one must face the reality of a situation, and call a spade, a spade. Or in this case, a shamrock, a shamrock.

It is an undeniable truth: St. Patrick’s Day is a beer holiday. No matter what silly attempts we in the industry make to convince people that wine can be an integral part of an Irish national holiday, it just is not reasonable. And out of respect for the divine juice of the vine, I am using this blog entry as a declaration that I will no longer humiliate wine with green food coloring on March 17th! Nor will I deny myself the joys of a good pint of my brew of choice if I decide to patronize the pub on this day of Irish pride.

This all being said, I am not one to give up on the excuse to enjoy wines because of the limitations of a holiday (And it is a shame to only get a go at wearing that garishly green shirt one day out of the year)! As the hours of sunlight grow longer, and the days grow warmer, the green that graces the month of March is not the exclusive rights of those that hail from the Emerald Isle. No, this Savvy Sommelier implores you to drink to ‘the rite of spring’ this month, and what better way than with a glass of wine that honors all things green.

No, put that food dye away!

Creative thinking is at the root of all great parties; here are a few ideas to run with, and a few great wines to feature:

Go green by throwing an environmentally-friendly party featuring all organic goodies, and pour only the best in organic or biodynamic wines. Alma Rosa is a top organic winery in Santa Barbara County, and their Pinot Noir is always a crowd-pleaser.

Be literal, and in season: throw an “All About Gruner” party, and pour only Gruner Veltliner wines. “Gruner” translates as ‘green’ in German, and these super-crisp white wines have bright green herbal flavors that go very well with the fresh produce of spring. A tasty one to try is the Schmeltz 2006 Gruner Veltliner.

Green Spain. Spain is a gold-mine of great wine and food, but often leaves people seeing red. However, the Basque region of Spain is also known as España Verde, or Green Spain. The food is centered around the fruits of the sea, and the acidic, refreshing wines of the region are spectacular to pair with them. Celebrate the same lust for life as the Spanish and enjoy the culinary delights of this culture. The 2006 Nessa Albarino is a beautiful and delicate white that begs for oysters, while the 2006 Jose Pariente Verdelho is a rounder, peachier wine, that adores cheeses and more substantial dishes, like paella.

Once you get going, there are many possibilities for a greener state of mind when it comes to wine! Stop by Savvy Cellar's "Green Wine Tasting" this Sunday 3-5pm.

There's No Place Like Rhone...

2008-01-04T17:20:00.000-08:00

Today's Headline: California Hunkers Down for Fierce Arctic Storm.

As I snuggle with my mug of coffee this January morning, cold, grey forces ravage my normally mild and serene Bay Area environment. With every intention of blogging on the delights of obscure Spanish wine regions (sneak preview!) instead my mind wanders to a far-off place, transported by this dismal weather. London? Seattle? The windy streets of Chicago?

Lest ye forget, I have a bit of a one-track mind. So the Oz of my wind-swept fantasy has fields of gnarled vines, nested amongst massive melons of stone, where centuries of tradition mingle with a fierce independent streak: I am transported to the vineyards of the Southern Rhone valley, where le Mistral winds beat the vines for about a third of the year, before ushering in the glorious sun that gives this unique region of France its ripeness--leading to a higher standard alcohol percentage than any other region in France, and yielding wines of deep body and structure. In the very creative camera of my mind, I see the wines of the Southern Rhone as a kind of crazy lollipop, one where every lick reveals an exciting new flavor (Cherry! Blueberry! Cinnamon! Sage? Pepper? Leather?? Tar??!), that takes both time and patience to finally reveal a luscious core.

The Southern Rhone is very distinct from its Northern counterpart, not only as far as geography and topography are concerned, but for the style of winemaking. While the austere North yields broodingly beautiful red wines from the Syrah grape alone, the South has a potential palette of 23 grape varieties from which to create liquid masterpieces. This being said, Grenache, Syrah, and Mouvedre tend to be the primary grapes used in blending. Adding to the delightful quirkiness of the region, each distinct appellation (for example, the more famous Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape) within the Southern Rhone has its own recipes for which grapes dominate their wines. And of course, the recipe is never quite the same from chef to chef! Which is probably why I enjoy the wines of this region so much, why it is a place that is such a fantastical journey for the senses. I delight in exploring the many distinct flavors that are created here, so surprised by the massive depth of flavor and yet still impressed by the presence of a charming subtlety in the best of wines. And to think that this can be achieved in such harsh conditions, days of unending cold and massive force winds maddening for the citizens, and brutally destructive to many crops, including the vines. But this is the case in many of the great wine regions of the world, where extremes of temperature or terrain are overcome to produce wines of distinct character.

So as we all deal with some form of bad weather this winter, this is something to ponder: what doesn’t kill you, makes you stronger. And, when the going gets tough, the tough get going. As for the Savvy, we prefer to stay safe and warm with a glass of luscious red wine. I personally have hunkered down with a bottle of the beautiful 2005 Chateau Fortia Chateauneuf-du-Pape, a gorgeous red that slowly offers up perfumed layers of rose, cherry, and fresh sage as it opens in the glass; perfect for passing time on a stormy winter night in.

Cheers!

It's Tuesday . . . Pass the Bubbly!

2007-12-05T09:59:00.000-08:00

Dust off the holly-berry stemware you got from Aunt Carol last year, the cork has once again been popped on the holiday cheer! That means you are likely to find me in the corner of the cellar where we stock our champagne and sparkling wine. And trust me, I am not complaining!

Well, ok, maybe just one little lament…

It is so sad that many wine drinkers wait until the holiday season to uncork the sparkly stuff! Come on people; Happy Tuesday, pass the Gosset! You party-only poppers are missing out on the amazing versatility and food compatibility sparkling wine has to offer, and the breadth and diversity of styles and flavors available to explore.

As I help customers select the perfect bubbly for their holiday fête, my first question is consistent and simple: “What do you like?” What I hear most often in response always strikes me as a little odd, and my time in the Cellar has lead me to believe that this may be the work of the Ghost of Office Holiday Parties Past. One too many plastic cup has runneth over with Asti Spumante or Andre, poor quality liquid-candy that can produce the kind of profound hangover that would make a bubbly-scrooge out of anyone. The common replies I hear time and again: “I only like really dry Champagne” or “I can’t drink sparkling wine, it always gives me a headache." Right…six glasses of Champagne and half a tray of snowflake cookies gives me a headache too. Moderation just doesn't seem to have a place in the holidays, and I think this (rather the lackthereof) is more the culprit in this medical myth.

To dispel the former common assumption, most champagne and sparkling wine one will encounter in stores and restaurants are nice and dry, but have some small percentage of sugar that is added during the latter stages of sparkling wine producation. There are sweeter versions (Demi-sec or Extra Dry will often be on the label to indicate), but they are not prevalent, and will never match the teeth-aching doses of sugar found in the cheap gas station varieties. These are delightful as an accompaniment to delicate cakes and desserts, where a little sweetness keeps the wine from tasting tart. These are also pleasant with spicy foods, for those of you who celebrate the season Cajun-style. But understandably, people tend to prefer a drier flavor, but a bone-dry Champagne (Extra Brut or Nature, on the label) which tend to have no dosage of sugar, are a rough breed not suited to most tastes...If you can find one, and are the Mr. Wizard experimental sort, include it in a side-by-side tasting with a more common Brut and the lightly sweet Demi-sec.

It is true that there are many different styles, one to suit every occasion, and please a broad range of palates. Some styles tend to be lighter and fruitier, like Prosecco, the Italian bubbly with soft citrus and green melon notes that make a beautiful partner to sushi , ceviche, and many other fresh, delicate dishes. Mionetto Sergio Prosecco is an all-star choice. California sparkling wine is very diverse, but is often fuller and richer in body like Champagne; it does tend to have more ripe fruit in the mix, and is often a crowd pleaser. It can be served with many different foods; personally I love Domaine Carneros Brut Sparkling with a slab of smoked salmon and my mom’s Mac and Cheese, but you may also find it a wonderful match to the roasted chicken or turkey that highlights your holiday meal.

And of course, there is the classic Champagne: toasty, creamy, candied and fruity, yet sophisticatedly earthy, and raging with acidity, it is hard to find a wrong pairing. For a taste of text-book champagne, try the delicious and unbelievably affordable Gosset Brut Excellence Champagne. Served with an elegant yet hearty winter supper-say a goat cheese and potato tart seasoned with fresh thyme and bacon-it is sublime. Equally as sublime? The same bottle of champagne, a fresh bag of kettle potato chips(any flavor will do, I fancy salt & pepper), and the company of those you love.

So I urge those of you bubble-shy wine drinkers to make an early resolution to explore the wide world of sparkling wine, not only at your parties this month, but at everyday occasions as well. And when you find yourself reaching for the same, security blanket bottle you have been drinking since college, push your arm down and to the left, and grab the Franciacorta instead!

Crack the bubbly. Drink up. It's Tuesday.

Cheers!

Rosé, Not Your Mama's Wine Cooler

2007-07-13T16:32:00.000-07:00

Sophisticated wine palates know that today's rosé is not the sweet syrup that many of us knew in our youth or parent's coming of age. Many in the know view rosé as the most versatile of wines. In fact Jeff Morgan, Author turned Napa Valley Winemaker, wrote a great book on this subject: Rosé, A Rosé, A Guide to the World's Most Versatile Wine.

Rosé has more depth than a white and can stand on its own with the big reds. A perfect accompaniment to many types of cuisine, rosé is equally at home with a hearty meat or a delicate fish. In fact, rosé is fast becoming the drink of choice of stylish Americans as Celia Chen posts in her blog: Notes on a Party. Celia recently reached out to the Savvy Sommelier to get some tips on fine rosés.

Things to Keep In Mind with Rosé
1) Rosé is best when it is young
Rosé is at its peak when it is young and fresh. Look for bottles that are less than a year or two old.

2) Get the temperature just right
Americans tend to over chill their white and rosé wine. Serving it icy cold kills the flavor. Take the wine out of the fridge 10-15 minutes before serving.

3) Freeze the bubbly
When its comes to sparkling wine and champagne, the colder the better. In this case, a few minutes in the freezer before serving does wonders for anything with bubbles.

4) Good wine does not have to be expensive
It is possible for savvy consumers to find high quality wines at affordable prices. Savvy Cellar Wines showcase wines that are rated 90 points or higher by leading wine critics and that cost $39/bottle or less.

Some of our favorite rosé wines:
Australia
06 The Colonial Estate "Enchanteur" - $24
06 Turkey Flat Rose - $18
06 Angove's Nine Vines South Australia - $12

California
05 Bonny Doon Vin Gris De Cigare - $14
06 Tablas Creek Rose - $25

France
06 Lucien Crochet Sancerre Pinot Rose - $30
06 Mas de la Dame Les Baux de Provence Rose du Mas - $13

Sparkling Rosés
Schramsberg Brut Rose Sparkling wine - $42
Piper-Heidsieck Brut Rose Champagne - $40
Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose Champagne NV - $55

Some of the above can be found at Savvy Cellar Wines.